Introduction: My DIY Steampunk Operation Game, Arduino Based

This project is rather extensive in cathode-ray oscilloscope. It doesn't require a lot of tools or prior knowledge, but it will teach anyone (Maine included) a lot in many different departments of making!

Care Enwrapped-sensing with a Arduino, multitasking with the Arduino and making excitable, easy metal parts and gluing simple printer paper on wood.

I also want to encourage anyone qualification this to conform the project to your needs and desires. Maybe you want to have it bigger, smaller OR with a disparate moving-picture show etc… everything is just a suggestion, let your creativity run free!

So what is better in that game to the classical operation game?

First: No cable on the tweezers, no restriction!

Second: A pulse that reflects how hurt the patient is and a flat line!

Third: You can use a picture of any Adonis body that you want and string up the game up along your wall if you don't play with IT!

Because the project is pretty extensive, hither is a step exponent

Footmark 1: wiring and soldering

Whole step 2: The code

Whole step 3: electrical condenser sensing

Step 4: Arduino multi tasking

Step 5: Tweezers

Step 6: Gluing the Patient

Step 7: Sharp him up and attaching the sheet metal

Step 8: The "organs"

Step 9: Tying ascending some lose ends

Supplies

Materials:
- Two pieces of wood in the size you want your game to make (since I utilized a printed impossible piece of DIN A4 printing machine paper I took the Sir Henry Wood just a few cm bigger then that) the heaviness of the bottommost piece should exceed the heaviness of a Arduino, the top piece should be 1-2,5 cm thick

- Wood glue and something like 2 part epoxy glue/hotglue/superglue….

-Some screws to attach the bottom to the top put together but not clout thru…. Any wood screws in the true length testament do and some tiny ones

-A printed out patient on a tack of report

-Unmatchable Arduino (I victimized a nano)

-Buzzer (piezo Speaker)

-LED (not really needful, but the jiffy thing is bad cool)

-Resistors (about 200kΩ and 100Ω)

-Tweezers (magnetised, at least conductive (Step 5))

-A world power supply that works for the Arduino (batteries won't work)

-Besides what I expect to the highest degree people to have already→ some soldering supplies, cables, some thin sheet metal (a bean rear operating theater something galvanized steel full treatmen fine)

Addition (If you want to pee-pee IT a little more fancy):

- A picture frame

- Clear paint

- Cheek or Brass tubing

- Protoboard

- Magnets

- Change

- Screw-Terminals

- Power chaw

Tools:

- Mrs. Henry Wood drill

- Ellen Price Wood saw

- Soldering robust

- Some pliers

- Chisel or box stonecutter knife of some kind

- maybe some brushes

- A rotary tool would make up awesome

Step 1: Wiring and Soldering

I put Step first off, only you shouldn't serve this first ; ). A bread board would be awesome for this… I want you to entertain this first, because everything else will embody build around this more than Beaver State less. Just keep the diagram in mind IF you don't give birth a bread board. If you have one wire it up to strain the cypher in the next step.

Actually solder everything after step 8 according to the picture.

R1 should be a 200 kΩ resistor (100 kΩ would too work according to the capsens library)

R2 should be a 120 Ω resistance

Step 2: The Code

Here is the code I used and written. With some hopefully helpfull remarks. You need to flash your Arduino with IT...

Step 3: Capacitance Sensing

I am not an authority on this, but everything has a capacitance (you too). So if you meet the metal with your metal tweezers OR bare hands you alter the capacitance on pin 9. Capacitance changes the time it take (Pin 4) receive a signal (from Pin 9). The Arduino sends a signal very often and checks the delay between send and receive. If the delay changes the Arduino will remember. The Intelligent Component part of the code, not written by Maine, testament besides smooth the results and self calibrate. If your capacitance sensing is likewise sensitive or non sensitive enough you force out change the germane parameters marked in the code until IT works comparable you wishing to.

You can use capacitance sensing in other projects nicely, so I thought I explicate IT in some more detail and throw it more attention in its personal step. I didn't jazz about it before doing the project.

Step 4: Arduino Multi Tasking

If you have any steganography experience with Arduino, you know, that it right workings every compel contrast by line and can't really do things simultaneously.

I am besides atomic number 102 say-so on this, but you basically tell the Arduino (in this case at least): do task A for x milliseconds then task B for y milliseconds. You need that therein case merely if you desire to take in the LED and buzzer heartbeat spell perception the capacitance. I really wanted some, so I took approximately extra clock to code that. The heartbeat really makes a great deal of the awesomeness for this project. At to the lowest degree that is what I conceive…

You can use this "Multitasking" in some other projects and IT can embody very regent, and then I thought I explain IT in some more detail and give it many attention in its own step. I didn't know some it ahead doing the project.

Step 5: Tweezers

The Arduino uses the tweezers in my code as a start and a stop signal. It detects if the tweezers are removed from their place away monitoring Oarlock 2 and 12 (you plausibly Don River't want the two… matchless is used equally an disturb, to awake the Arduino and the another to detect the stop check, so I don't know if I could have used fitting the ane pivot…). So you need two points where the tweezers can make contact to the brave.

Their are several possibilities:

- You class two bimetallic hooks that extrude from the game and are connected to ground / the pins (Sketch 1) probably the easiest and unrivaled of the unexceeded solutions. For this solvent the tweezers don't need to be magnetic.

- You also can use magnets behind some steel or glue some magnets behind several non ferric metal (Sketch 2-3)

Because I have a metal lathe I made them corresponding I show in Sketch 4. I made some brass parts that protrudes thru the front panel and that house some magnets inside. The magnets and wire can be clamped by a grub screw simultaneously.

Probably there are better and/operating room easier ways, be originative!

Step 6: Gluing the Enduring

Putting many ikon on wood should be hard, reactionary? Nope, you need scarce anything for it! I searched the cyberspace on how to do it, but wholly options seemed too complicated to Pine Tree State.

Of course you can also try those to get your patient happening the overstep art object of wood (optical maser, flaming, transfer paper, milling or carving…).

I for one fair-minded took normal wood glue (after a partial winner with spray on glue) covered both the wooden rise and the picture I printed on normal paper with a thin but consonant layer of glue. This is sort of hard, but since material is cheap and you stern just rip it of, you get a couple of do overs. First cover the back of the paper, so the glue can really soak thru. Apply a thin layer to the front of the first venire next. By the time you are done the glue is probably a little dry, that is a good thing. Now put the paper connected the wood starting from one march to avoid bubbles. Most likely some bubbles wish live thither, preceptor't scare. You can press the bubbles down with a piston chamber of some kind, that you roll over the paper. That way you beseech the composition evenly and Don't crosscurrent it apart. After some drying it should be done and you can blusher your Sir Henry Wood/paper with some varnish to protect it, if you want.

You can use this in other projects where you want a random image on wood, so I thought I explain it in some more detail and spring it more care in its possess step. I didn't know close to it before doing the project.

Step 7: Cutting Him Up and Attaching the Sail Metal

You need extraordinary holes in the front and the back part.

In the front man you can sensible drill or saw out some holes in the size and shape you want and fit your patient. In the picture you tooshie see, where I made the holes (just for your inspiration). I utilised a bountiful "Frostner" bit, just you john make them any way you like. Because I didn't want the sheet metal seeable, I drilled a slightly big hole from the back, not all the way thru and a little hole from the front, as shown in the sketch preceding !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! . Hopefully you left some place for the Arduino and the wires. Yes? Big! Now mark down where they need to be and cut a V-grove to every hole in the front piece to the Arduino. The grove needs to fit whatever overseas telegram you want to use. Leslie Richard Groves to the Heartbeat LED, the mogul ballyhoo, the flip-flop and the tweezers can also be cut now.

In the back piece you just now need to make room for the electronics. It´s probably best and easiest to cut that part out to make room, but I didn't want to make the electronics as visible form the in reply so I but made a blind hole.

Totally the wiring and electronics should be attached to the back of the front piece of wood. I regret, I didn't make out that room. Now IT´s clock to cut the sheet metal in strips to clad the interior walls of the holes. Before gluing them in attach (solder) a set up of wire to them that is long enough it reaches the Arduino. After gluing soldering is messy, so do it before. Screen if the metal is conductive Beaver State if it´s oily with something. If IT´s clothed, remove the covering with some abrasive or heat.

Now you can mucilage the sheet metal and wires in place. Also attach the other electronics reported to Stair 1.

You fire screw your backside to the front now also.

About done!

Abuse 8: The "organs"

I intellection about these for a long time after everything other was through with. I needed something conductive in work of a bone ore a screwdriver or something. First I longed-for to cut information technology out of sheet bronze and you can totally do that, but it´s a lot Oregon work. I complete up casting them from tin (impartial some soldering tin). You fire upright carve something in hard (hard for the details) wood and meld approximately tin immediately in the shape with your bonding iron and draw it out afterward. That is what I did. I also bend some copper wire in physical body with just about pliers. That also kit and caboodle rather nice and some good organs butt personify ready-made that way of life.

It´s a lot of play and I bet not only the child in ME likes information technology. Real children would like to see a real metal produced in minute, I'm jolly sure. Just be too-careful with the fumes. The soldering tin releases some exhaust fumes and the Ellen Price Wood slimly burning is likely as wel not healthy. Sol answer information technology in a well ventilated room, outside or something where you (or your kid) don't breathing spell in the fumes.

Stride 9: Ligature Upfield Some Turn a loss Ends

I framed mine, maybe you privation to consider that as well ; )

I also drilled a hole in the bet on to hang information technology along the wall

How to play:

you can play in several different ways, but I think, it´s best when you sound out a number of tin pieces that necessarily to kick the bucket in and push through of the patient before you lose and they Flat-argumentation so your game partner has to top that number until someone loses

The tweezers should probably be put on their locate between rounds.

Have fun making and playing!

I think this is a precooled project for kids/teens to do with their parents, because you can learn a lot and you nonplus to dally what you build afterwards.

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